I just returned from my annual pilgrimage to Napa Valley with family and friends. Our group was welcomed with open arms everywhere we went and each of the wineries we visited thanked us for coming. While the pandemic has presented its own challenges for the wineries, so has unpredictable weather, labor shortages and wild fires. Producing wine is not a profession for the feint of heart.
One of my favorite visits was to Seavey Winery up on Howell Mountain. Seavey is a small, family operation that produces Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. When you sit down to taste wine you can’t help but hear the chickens or see goats stroll by enjoying the afternoon sun! Producing wine is an agricultural effort so I guess the complement of farm animals shouldn’t be a surprise.
Tastings at most wineries in Napa Valley normally involve trying the most recent vintage. While this is always enjoyable, it’s difficult to judge how a particular wine will evolve over time. At Seavey, the tastings always include a number of vintage wines from their cellar which takes most of the guesswork out of how the wine will age. In addition to tasting the vintage wines, you can purchase them which makes the visit all the more rewarding.
As we drove up Howell Mountain, the devastation from the Glass Fire was painfully obvious. In addition to the burned brush, most of the mature trees were scorched 20 feet up from the base. If the trees had not been cut down already, they were marked with orange tape to indicate they are to be cut down. Seavey indicated during our visit that almost everyone was evacuated during the fire except the farm manager and a few workers who stayed to fight the fire. Luckily, the buildings, animals and vineyards were saved. Over the course of the afternoon we heard about the other challenges they routinely face over the course of the growing season. Early frost conditions, temperature spikes, vine disease, drought conditions or heavy rains are just a few.
The story I enjoyed most involved how they protect the workers from mountain lions when they are picking the grapes in the Fall. If you thought your job had challenges, think again! Apparently Howell Mountain is home to all sorts of wildlife including bears, coyotes and mountain lions. Harvesting the grapes takes place at night to take advantage of cooler temperatures. As the workers traverse the vineyard, the rows of vines are illuminated with portable lights and the vineyard perimeter is patrolled by German Shepherds. If a mountain lion gets close to the perimeter the dogs know what they are to do.
The next time you enjoy a glass of wine from a winery on Howell Mountain, Spring Mountain, Mount Veeder or any of the other mountain locations in Napa Valley, think about everything that had to be overcome to produce it.
